Title : Science-based skin care to prevent aging and pigmentation with special reference to Japanese skin
Abstract:
Without doubt, by understanding the molecular changes in skin that cause photoaging and the processes that induce intrinsic ageing, we can then devise a scientific strategy of treatment. Foremost amongst the molecular changes is the destruction of vitamin A, which is naturally found in photo-protected skin in relatively high quantities. Exposure to light, and particularly UVA light, induces changes in the molecular structure of vitamin A. By absorbing the energy of photons, the double bonds are altered or broken, and while the photo-protective effect can even equate to an SPF value of 20 or more, the loss of vitamin A is the major stress on skin cells. DNA is damaged, collagen and elastin formation is depressed, but Matrix Proteinases are promoted to destroy dermal matrix. The melanocyte axis is affected and results in excessive pigmentation. Langerhans cells are attenuated, which impairs skin immunity and permits the formation of skin cancers. The antioxidant status is severely affected as well. I will show how, by replacing vitamin A and antioxidants, one can restore a youthful appearance and blemish-free skin. Adding selected peptides to products can give significant rejuvenation. By enhancing penetration with cosmetic skin needling and a combination of low frequency sonophoresis and iontophoresis one can reverse these physiological changes and rejuvenate skin.
