Title : Ascorbic acid: An essential molecule for building collagen and fundamental skin wellness
Abstract:
Ascorbic acid C6H8O6 is an essential vitamin and antioxidant with a molecular weight of 176.12g/mol, it has a 6-carbon lactone ring structure with 2 hydroxyl groups. The ring can donate electrons to neutralize free radicals. When it does this, it becomes dehydroascorbic acid (oxidized form). The body can convert this back to ascorbic acid, recycling it.
Ascorbic acid functions as a nutrient from diet, provides immune support and the essential molecule to synthesize collagen. Ascorbic acid acts as a cofactor for enzymes that build collagen, carnitine, and neurotransmitters. Without enough ascorbic acid, these processes fail. That’s why vitamin C deficiency causes scurvy—collagen breaks down.
Ascorbic acid has less acidic pH. When it comes to building collagen, a less acidic (higher) pH does not have a benefit if applying pure L-ascorbic acid topically. In fact, science shows that it does the exact opposite; it prevents vitamin C from entering the skin to do its job. To actually get through the skin barrier and reach the dermal fibroblasts (the cells that manufacture collagen) in the reticular layer, a pure L-ascorbic acid serum must be highly acidic—ideally at a pH below 3.5. Vitamin C derivatives include Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP), Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THD) and Ascorbyl Glucoside. They are chemically modified to remain stable and uncharged at a higher pH. On skin penetration, the body's enzymes must convert them back into pure ascorbic acid so they can serve as the necessary cofactor for collagen-building enzymes (prolyl hydroxylase and lysyl hydroxylase).
